That special carnival spirit. It’s hard to put into words, because how do you describe a feeling in a way that truly does it justice? Carnival is about joy, passion and camaraderie. It’s an expression of freedom. Perhaps it’s one of the greatest shows on Earth, yet it also has a rich history and centuries-old traditions behind it. However you choose to describe the carnival spirit, one thing is certain: you’ll experience it for yourself in Santa Cruz, on the Canary Island of Tenerife. I visited Santa Cruz during Carnival and experienced a truly spectacular celebration!
The world’s second-largest Carnival: Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife
When you think of Carnival, you might first picture the parades and fancy dress celebrations in the southern part of the Netherlands, below the major rivers. In the province of Limburg, it’s known as ‘vasteloavend’. But Carnival is celebrated in many places around the world! Of course, we all know the famous Carnival in Rio de Janeiro in Brazil. But did you know that the second largest carnival in the world is celebrated on the island of Tenerife? Consequently, celebrating carnival is one of the best things to do on holiday in Tenerife.
The annual Carnival de Santa Cruz de Tenerife
Carnival takes place just before Lent, in February or March. But in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, preparations begin months in advance. From designing dazzling floats and extravagant costumes to rehearsing spectacular dance performances and parades, and preparing for the Carnival Queen pageant, it’s all part of what makes Carnival so special. Carnival is deeply rooted in the culture of the Canary Islands and attracts visitors from all over the world. The excitement and euphoria that build up over months come to life all at once when Santa Cruz bursts at the seams with thousands of revelers during Carnival.
Activities during Carnival de Santa Cruz de Tenerife
The Carnival of Santa Cruz has been celebrated for centuries and has continued to evolve over the years. Despite these changes, it remains centred around a number of long-standing events and traditions.
Traditionally, the Carnival Queen (Reina del Carnaval) is crowned on Wednesday. It’s a spectacular event that is broadcast live on television. Once the queen has been crowned, the celebrations can begin! On Friday, the opening parade takes place, featuring brightly coloured floats, large processions and performances by carnival groups known as 'comparsas', who bring the streets to life with their music, dancing and entertainment.
In the days that follow, the whole city is swept up in the carnival spirit. Santa Cruz comes alive with music across its various stages, while bars and food stalls serve up plenty of food and drinks to keep the celebrations going. The city centre is the place to be for street carnival. The busiest area is the square formed by Plaza de España, Calle San José, Calle Villalba Hervás and Plaza del Príncipe, where more than 200,000 people can gather. Want to immerse yourself fully in the carnival atmosphere? Head to Plaza de España, the beating heart of Santa Cruz during Carnival.
El Coso and Entierro de la Sardina
The celebrations reach their climax on Tuesday with the official parade, known as El Coso. This spectacular procession makes its way along Avenida de Anaga. Traditionally, Carnival comes to an end on Ash Wednesday with the Entierro de la Sardina (Burial of the Sardine). This unique local tradition centres around the symbolic burial of a sardine. A giant sardine-shaped figure (yes, really!) is carried through the streets in a funeral-like procession before being set alight. The ceremony marks the end of Carnival and symbolizes the end of one season and the rebirth of another.
On the website of Carnival de Santa Cruz you will find the dates of carnival, the full program and organized activities.
My Experience: Carnival in Santa Cruz
What was my experience of Carnival in Santa Cruz like? Let me start by saying that I’m not really a Carnival person back home in the Netherlands. In fact, I had never experienced a Carnival celebration before visiting Carnival de Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Naturally, I was incredibly curious and had no idea what to expect.
Every year, Carnival has a different theme, and the year I was there (2023), it was New York! The excitement and anticipation were palpable all over the city! Carnival was the talk of the town, and all around me I saw people dressed in colorful costumes and lots of decorations.
Tip: Get into the carnival spirit at the Carnival House!
Prior to carnival, I visited the carnival house Casa del Carnaval. It’s a great way to get into the carnival spirit! I’d definitely recommend visiting if you’re in Tenerife during Carnival. At Casa del Carnaval, you can learn more about the Carnival celebrations in Santa Cruz and admire the stunning costumes worn by the Carnival Queens in previous years, among other exhibits.
You’ll also find the latest Carnival poster here, created to announce the upcoming celebrations. Every year, a new poster is specially designed for Carnival. In 2023, it was designed by Nareme Melián. This poster, along with those from previous years, is on display in the museum.
Casa del Carnaval is located at Calle Aguere 19, 38005 Santa Cruz de Tenerife. It is open Monday through Sunday from 10:00 am - 6:30 pm. Admission is free, but it is advisable to book in advance through the website.
Friday night: Cabalgata Anunciadora
The first evening I experienced Carnival was during the Cabalgata Anunciadora, also known as the opening parade, which takes place on Friday evening. Starting at 8 pm, this parade officially kicks off the street celebrations. It brings together the highlights of the different stages of Carnival, both those that have already taken place and those still to come. The parade features murgas (satirical singing groups), comparsas (dance and music groups), rondallas (traditional musical ensembles), other music groups, and the winners of individual and group costume competitions.
It felt like a kind of open-air exhibition unfolding across the streets of Santa Cruz after dark. The costumes worn by the Carnival Queen, her attendants and the various carnival groups were even more impressive in real life as they paraded through the city. It was an explosion of colour, music and dance, with thousands of enthusiastic spectators lining the streets. The performers truly shone like stars in the show!
The parade continued well into the night. If you’re in Santa Cruz for the Cabalgata Anunciadora, be prepared for a short night! The celebrations don’t stop when the parade ends. Instead, the party spills out onto the streets, with plenty of music, dancing and refreshing Spanish beers, including Dorada, a local favourite from Santa Cruz. During the Bailes de Carnaval (Carnival street parties), the festivities continue into the early hours. And where should you go? Plaza de España is the place to be!
Saturday night: the Rhythm and Harmony Parade
The second day I put on my Carnival outfit was Saturday. Every year, one of the most colourful shows of Carnival takes place on this day: the comparsas competition, known as Ritmo y Armonía (Rhythm and Harmony). During this event, various dance groups entertain the crowds with their vibrant, joyful choreographies, moving to the rhythm of the music. The performance takes place along Avenida Francisco La Roche and is free to attend. After the comparsas competition, a parade follows. When I arrived at around 9 pm, the streets were already filled with joy, rhythm and colour, the key ingredients of Carnival in Santa Cruz!
After this parade, it was time once again for the ‘Bailes de Carnaval.’ The concert venues are Plaza de España, Plaza de Príncipe, and Plaza de Europa.
Visiting Tenerife during Carnival
Planning a sunny getaway at the beginning of the year? Tenerife is a fantastic destination to consider, especially if you can combine your holiday with Carnival! If you want to experience the festivities, I’d recommend staying in Santa Cruz. Many of the city’s streets are closed to traffic during Carnival, which can make it difficult to leave the city by public transport or taxi.
Want to stay as close to the Carnival celebrations as possible? Take a look at an accommodation near Weyler, Calle Anaga, and Teatro Guimera. Want a little more sleep? Then stay around Las Ramblas.
One idea is to combine a few nights in Santa Cruz with a stay elsewhere on the island. I spent a few nights in the lovely hotel Taburiente in Santa Cruz (close to the Carnival celebrations, yet tucked away in a peaceful location), before heading to the south of Tenerife. There’s so much to see and do on the island, so I’d definitely recommend exploring Tenerife on a road trip!
Santa Cruz
Hotel Taburiente
A wonderful stay in Santa Cruz during Carnival.
Tips for preparing for Carnival
You don’t need to do much to prepare for Carnival in Santa Cruz. Perhaps the most important thing is to put together a fun, colourful outfit! Almost everyone on the streets is dressed up, so you’ll actually stand out more in your everyday clothes than in a costume. Of course, if you’re visiting Tenerife on holiday, you might not want to use up too much precious luggage space on a Carnival outfit and that’s completely understandable! Colourful clothes paired with accessories such as clown wigs, funny hats and masks will do the trick just as well. Plus, you’ll find several shops in Santa Cruz where you can pick up a Carnival costume.
Safety at Carnival de Santa Cruz de Tenerife
I found Carnival in Santa Cruz to be a very safe experience. I walked around the parades with my camera and never felt that I was taking an unnecessary risk. The atmosphere is predominantly one of joy and celebration, with security and emergency services focused on looking after visitors and keeping everyone safe. Overall, people are very friendly and welcoming. Of course, it’s always wise to stay alert and take sensible precautions. If possible, I’d also recommend going to Carnival with a group of friends rather than on your own.
Should I buy tickets?
Most events during the Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife are free to attend. Many activities take place in the streets, and there are plenty of free open-air concerts to enjoy. However, if you want to watch one of the competitions, you’ll need a ticket. The crowning of the Carnival Queen, for example, is a popular event, so make sure you get your ticket well in advance!
During Carnival to Tenerife
Tenerife has so much more to offer than just Carnival! From stunning natural landscapes and hidden gems to charming villages and unique attractions, there’s plenty more to discover on the island. Curious to find out what else Tenerife has in store for you? Check out our other articles about Tenerife:
